My SUP Stories

I lived in Stockholm at the end of the 90s, long before I discovered SUP. When I returned this August for a short visit, I was keen to get on the water. Through Instagram, I’d connected with a local paddler, Marie, who along with her husband Johan, kindly offered to take us out and even provided gear.

Holiday or not, the alarm went off at 5:30am and after a short metro ride and brisk walk, we met at Liljeholmskajen, a new residential area. The city still half asleep, we hopped on to Lake Mälaren to paddle around Långholmen. We did a wonderful 6.5km loop. Urban, green and peaceful, the perfect mix. The highlight came after Västerbron, where the view opened across Riddarfjärden: Old Town ahead, City Hall to the left and Södermalm’s colorful hillside to the right.

Stockholm is often called the Venice of the North, spread across 14 islands and connected by 57 bridges. For someone who loves bridges, it’s heaven. And beyond the city lies the Stockholm archipelago: 30,000 islands waiting to be explored.

Our hotel was near Slussen, which means “the lock.” Ever since 1642, there’s been a lock here, between Södermalm and the Old Town, linking Lake Mälaren with the Baltic Sea. Slussen is a major traffic hub, with over 400,000 people passing through daily. Fun fact: in 1967, Sweden switched from driving on the left to the right. One morning, traffic stopped for 10 minutes, then resumed on the opposite side. Wild.

Today, Slussen is being redeveloped to handle rising sea levels, modern needs and a shift toward sustainable transport. New waterfront spaces are on the way, reshaping how people move, meet and connect with the water. Swedes understand the power of Blue Mind, the calm and clarity that comes from being near water. I cannot wait to explore more next time.

This route was magic. If you’ve paddled something better in Stockholm, I want to know.

Weird & wonderful

• Marieviksbadet – Stockholm’s original dockside bathing spot. Dive into freshwater pools, warm up in the sauna and fika at Plåtparken.
• Långholmen – Former prison island, now a green retreat with beaches, a hostel and open-air stages.
• Södermalm – Colourful hillside houses stacked like a postcard. Wander up for views, photos and independent shops.
• Västerbron – A 600-metre arch bridge that connects Kungsholmen to Södermalm, spanning over Riddarfjärden.

Need to know

• Waterway: Lake Mälaren, freshwater, non-tidal.
• Entry/exit: Public dock at Liljeholmenkajen, what3words https://w3w.co/gangs.guilty.touches, nearest metro is Liljeholmen (T13/T14).
• Distance: 6.5 km loop around Långholmen.
• Equipment: SUP rentals available nearby at Stockholm SUP, Långholmen Kajak (website lists routes as well) or tours with Stockholm Adventures.
• More details: Occasional wake from ferries and boats. No portages.
• Authority: City of Stockholm.
• License: No license needed. Swedish “freedom to roam” applies. Paddle respectfully.

Route recap & map

Start at Liljeholmskajen → paddle under Liljeholmsbron → turn north between Reimersholme and Bergsund → loop clockwise around Långholmen → pass under Västerbron → return via Pålsundet → finish back at Liljeholmskajen.

One island down. There are 29,999 more to discover. Share your favorite Stockholm paddle in comments.

Enjoyed this story? There’s more where that came from, urban paddle routes: London Legacy Loop, Cambridge or Thames Putney-Richmond. My book Paddle London (Bloomsbury) is also coming out soon. Hit ‘Follow’ or ‘Subscribe’ to stay in the loop.