My SUP Stories

Some places are magical. Amongst them stands Verdon Gorge. A natural wonder. The true enchantment lies in the hours before 9 am or after 7 pm.

It’s early morning and quiet blankets the lake. The rental places that will soon be bustling with activity are still closed. Colourful pedalos, canoes and kayaks patiently wait at the water’s edge, ready for the crowds later. As we prepare to launch, the low, steady hum of the electric pump unintentionally rouses a few wild campers. Fortunately, they just greet us with sleepy smiles.

The wind ripples the surface of the lake as we start paddling towards Pont du Galetas. The impressive bridge spans between the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence and the Var regions. It also marks the end of the Verdon Gorge canyon, where the river feeds into the artificial Lake Sainte-Croix.

After the bridge, we’re officially paddling upstream the river Verdon. The river’s source is 170 kilometres away, near the Italian border. Over the years, the river has sculpted and carved the largest canyon in Europe, Verdon Gorge (en français: Gorges du Verdon). It boasts 20 kilometres of deep and wild gorges with dramatic cliffs of calcareous limestone rock soaring up to 700 metres in height.

I feel small paddling next to the almost vertical walls that reach towards the sky. The colours of the cliffs range from soft creams and pale yellows to warm oranges and rich russets. It’s a lovely contrast to the mesmerising colour of the water. It’s the unique geological composition of the area that gives rise to this exceptional water colour. As the river meanders through the mountains, it collects fine sediment known as glacial flour, which acts as a natural reflector, enhancing the stunning turquoise shades. The colour intensity varies from day to day and with the amount of sunlight. On a previous visit, the water took on an odd milky quality. The friendly rental shop assistant explained that it was due to low water levels.

We make our way to the buoys that mark the end of the designated boating area. The Saint-Maurin nature reserve, which is beyond this point, is off-limits to boats, preserving the pristine environment of the region. Time to turn! As we approach Lake Sainte-Croix on our way back, the magic of solitude is broken with a steady stream of pedalos, kayaks and electric boats entering the canyon. The tranquillity we experienced earlier transforms into a scene bustling with activity and laughter.

Aren’t we fortunate to have had the chance to explore the gorge during the quiet morning hours, basking in its natural charm?

Weird & wonderful

Verdon Gorge is a playground of activities beyond paddle sports:

• Paragliding: Take flight over Lake Sainte-Croix for an adrenaline-pumping aerial adventure.
• Hiking: Explore the gorge’s scenic trails suited for all levels of hikers.
• Driving: Cruise through the gorges by car, stopping at exceptional viewpoints along the 130 km route.
• Climbing: Conquer endless climbing routes amidst the magnificent canyon landscape.
• Rafting: Experience thrilling rapids and serene stretches on a rafting descent.

Need to know

• Waterway: The Verdon River stretches 170 km in total. The section covered here is the end of Verdon Gorge, a 20-kilometre limestone river canyon nestled in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region of Southeastern France. The paddle begins at the artificial Lake Sainte-Croix, which the Verdon flows into.
• Entry: Pont du Galetas car park, D957, 83630 Aiguines, France
• Exit: Pont du Galetas car park, D957, 83630 Aiguines, France
• Distance: The round trip covers 4 km, but you can extend the journey by paddling on the 10 km long and 3 km wide Lake Sainte-Croix.
• More details: For more information in French, refer to the official website of the Verdon Natural Regional Park. The English site is ‘under construction’, but Google is helpful with translation. To avoid crowds and heat, especially during the busy months of July and August, consider starting your paddle before 9 am or after 7 pm. While there are rental services near Pont du Galetas, please note that SUPs are not be available. Water flow is regulated by hydroelectric dams. Don’t attempt to paddle in very windy conditions. Access into the canyon may also be restricted. As a conservation measure, wild camping is prohibited and open fires (cigarettes, campfires, BBQs) are not allowed in the natural areas.

If you liked this story, check out my coastal adventures in Wales – SUP Route: Joy of Guided Tour and Jurassic Coast – SUP Route: Old Harry Rocks. More French SUP spots coming soon. Hit ‘Follow’ or ‘Subscribe’ to get the latest posts.

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