My SUP Stories

I get such van envy when on the coast. All these cute camper vans dotting the seaside roads. Each more creatively decorated than the last. It seems as though every traveller has their own personal masterpiece on wheels. One day, I too shall join the ranks.

For this SUP weekend away, I hop on the train and after an hour’s journey, my friend Vicky picks me up at a station along her route. What luxury! We then drive two hours down to Dorset. For accommodation, Vicky is more adventurous and into the great outdoors while I must confess, I have a soft spot for plush comforts. The perfect compromise is a glamping pod nestled in Wareham, close to our paddle destinations along the Jurassic Coast.

Next morning dawns sunny, but as forecast, northerly winds blow with gusto. Luckily, the dreaded phone call from the tour organiser cancelling the event never materialises. We know to expect them to play the ‘kayak card’. And yes, it’s understandable. Kayaks, with their low profile, are less affected by the wind. However, our brilliant guide Elliott grants us the decision and SUPs it is. He does assess our paddling ability before we set off in pursuit of Old Harry, one of the most famous landmarks on the South Coast.

What’s so special about this piece of rock then? These majestic chalk formations, jutting out of the sea like ancient sentinels, Old Harry Rocks, tell a story millions of years in the making. Aren’t they just a testament to the power of nature and the enduring beauty of our planet?

Navigating the choppy coastline, we gradually find our stride amidst the rhythmic waves. Farewell to touring on chubby inflatables, for we embrace the graceful glide of hard boards! Led by Elliott, we explore the sparkling waters, drawing ever closer to Old Harry himself. Equipped with helmets for safety, we venture through narrow passages between the rocks and cliffs, immersing ourselves in their ancient presence. Time has shaped them, weathered them into natural works of art. Here they stand, guardians of the coast.

Once back on shore, a new dream takes shape. I’ve now kitted my future camper van with a roof rack. It proudly displays two trusty composite boards, ready to ride the waves wherever my wanderlust may lead.

Weird & wonderful

• Who is Old Harry? Turns out, Old Harry Rocks takes its name from Harry Paye, a swashbuckling pirate who roamed these waters. Ahoy, hidden treasure and secret hideouts await amidst the majestic cliffs.
• Old Harry is a widow. Yep, until 1896, there was Old Harry’s Wife, standing tall next to him. But alas, erosion had other plans. Now Old Harry stands as a lonely rock, reminiscing about the good old days.
• Old Harry used to be linked to the Isle of Wight. Back in the day, Old Harry and The Needles on the Isle of Wight were besties, connected by a line of chalk hills. But time and ice had their way. They now have to exchange longing glances from afar. Talk about a geological long-distance relationship.
• Flint stone found along the Jurassic Coast: Hard, durable and apparently, perfect for making tools and weapons. Flint has been around for ages, just like the fictional Stone Age family, the Flintstones! But sorry, no prehistoric cartoons here. Flint stones and Fred Flintstone are mere coincidence. They do both bring a touch of rock-solid fun to their respective realms.

Need to know

• Waterway: The Dorset Coast spans nearly 160 kilometres along the southern English coastline, from Bournemouth to the East Devon border. It is renowned as the Jurassic Coast, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, due to its geological significance. Old Harry Rocks is in Studland Bay, a 6-kilometre stretch.
• Entry: Fore/Adventure, Hutquarters, Middle Beach, Studland, Dorset, BH19 3AP
• Exit: Fore/Adventure, Hutquarters, Middle Beach, Studland, Dorset, BH19 3AP
• Distance: 7 km round trip
• More details: Your go-to resource for parking, restrooms, food outlets and other facilities is the official website of the National Trust. And while you’re at it, apart from your regular checks, don’t forget to visit Surfline for up-to-date information on weather, wind, tides and swell. If you’ve got Jo Moseley’s book Stand-up Paddleboarding in Great Britain, there’s a chapter dedicated to Old Harry Rocks with great detail.

If you liked this story, check out my other coastal adventures –SUP Route: Plymouth’s Coastal Paradise (Devon) & SUP Route: Joy of Guided Tour (Anglesey, Wales).

Let’s make some waves! Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below.